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Semuc Champey

11/24/2014

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My legs are SO sore! You wouldn't believe it, considering that I spent this entire day riding a bus.

This weekend we went sightseeing to Semuc Champey, supposedly the most beautiful place in Guatemala.
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It was definitely the most STRENUOUS place thus far! First a long bus ride up from Antigua, then a hike down the hill (and up the hill) to our hostel. The next morning we got into the back of a truck for a 45-minute ride through the mountains, from our hostel to Semuc. There were 18 of us standing in the back of the truck, out in the fresh open mountain air. Don't worry- there were rails in the back that we could hang onto. It was  pretty awesome to see real cacao trees and pods growing, especially after all we had learned about the chocolate-making process at Choco Museo and Chocolate Antigua.

Once we got to Semuc, the tour guide let us taste fresh cacao seeds. They were sweet and yummy, but we were cautioned to only suck off the outer part and not chew or eat the actual bean. Many of the locals make drinking chocolate to sell for extra money. Some houses had blankets spread on the ground with cacao seeds in various stages of processing.
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Wafers of drinking chocolate. No powder or bars here!
After tasting the cacao seeds, our tour guide Jose took us through one of the caves. Each of us got a candle to light the way, though some people rented headlamps as well. It was not a normal cave tour, because a lot of swimming and rock climbing was required. We kind of had to feel our way through, because a candle doesn't give much light. There was lots of slipping, some falling, many cuts and scrapes and candle wax. Because you can't climb a slippery ladder or slippery rocks with only one hand. The candle, obviously, goes in your mouth at those times (and drips wax on arms and other body parts). It was definitely adventurous, and definitely something they would not allow in the States.

After the cave tour, we went tubing down the river, where some Guatemalan boys tried selling us beer. Even after we had left, they grabbed their little coolers and a tube, and followed us down the river. Some people bought the beer and tried to tube and drink. Don't tube and drink- your tube will float the wrong way and your beer will end up in the river.

After tubing, we had lunch. Some of the backpackers had bought a "lunchbox" which consisted of a sandwich, granola bar and a piece of fruit (25q, or $3.50). Hubs and I opted for the local food, which cost 40q ($5.75) but was infinitely better. Superb grilled chicken with beans, guacamole, salad, corn tortillas and rice. Yummy.

Next up, we went to the park to see the pools. The guide asked us if we wanted to go to the lookout (where Hubs and I are in the picture). We said sure, we'll go to the lookout. So our whole group headed up the stairs. And up, and up, and up. We thought it would never end. The beer drinkers started lagging behind, and there was one comment of, "Whoever said we should do this deserves a punch in the face!" Being the speedy quick medal-winning runners* that we are, we made it to the top first, though I was too tired to really enjoy it. The way down was a lot easier.

Then we swam in the pools. This was pretty fun. At the last pool, the tour guide took some of us through an underground cave. Unlike the last cave which had more air than water, this cave only had enough room for your face. Not your whole head, just your face. Not for claustrophobic people and again, not for tourism in the United States. 

After swimming, everyone was dog-tired and ready to go home. One backpacker had bought some cardamom (a big Guatemalan export) candies and shared them with everyone. It was my first time every having cardamom candy.

Back at the hostel, we changed out of our swimsuits and grabbed a bite to eat. It was superb. We got a different room- a private one this time- in a loft above one of the rooms. It was absolutely beautiful and perfect, sleeping under a thatched roof. I also saw an enormous cockroach that was 1 1/2" long, but that only added to the charm.
Picture#coolsink
The resort we stayed at, El Retiro, was picture-perfect with thatched-roof bungalows, hammocks and swings everywhere, and even sidewalks paved with glass bottles. It had a "hippie" flair to it, with big colorful paintings inside the bathrooms and decidedly American/European music playing at the bar. We found a board game that someone had made- Monopoly, but themed for Star Wars. Unfortunately it had no dice and some missing cards. 

While it was indeed a beautiful place, there were no towels or paper towels in the bathrooms to wipe our hands on (...?), and we found out last night that that one of the girls (who slept in our 10-person room the first night) had been robbed of a ring and an expensive wrist watch while we were touring Semuc Champey. Luckily Hubs and I had taken our stuff with us to the park. 

Here's to surviving caves, thieves, and excruciating hikes!

*Hubs and I have indeed both won medals running 5Ks, but I wouldn't call myself the speediest runner.

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